The Philippine Islands, 1493-1898, Volume 43, 1670-1700
Explorations by early navigators, descriptions of the islands and their peoples, their history and records of the Catholic missions, as related in contemporaneous books and manuscripts, showing t (2024)

On the evening of the 21st of January, the Vincennes,with the tender in company, left the bay of Manilla. I then sent forMr. Knox, who commanded the latter, and gave him directions to keepclosely in company with the Vincennes, and at the same time pointed outto him places of rendezvous where the vessels might again meet in caseany unavoidable circ*mstance caused their separation. I was moreparticular in giving him instructions to avoid losing sight of theVincennes, as I was aware that my proposed surveys might be impeded orfrustrated altogether, were I deprived of the assistance of the vesselunder his command.

On the 22d, we passed the entrance of the Straits of San Bernadino.It would have been my most direct route to follow these straits until Ihad passed Mindoro, and it is I am satisfied the safest course, unlessthe winds are fair, for the direct passage. My object, however, was toexamine the ground for the benefit of others, and the Apo Shoal, whichlies about mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro, claimed my firstattention. The tender was despatched to survey it, while I proceeded inthe Vincennes to examine the more immediate entrance to the Sooloo Sea,off the southwest end of Mindoro.

Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro, and [132]ourobservations made it two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shapeof a dome, and appears remarkably regular when seen from its westernside. On approaching Mindoro, we, as usual, under high islands, lostthe steady breeze, and the wind became light for the rest of the day.Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic; it appears asif thrown up in confused masses: it is not much settled, as the moresouthern islands are preferred to it as a residence.

On the 23d, we ascertained the elevation of the highest peak of theisland by triangulation to be three thousand one hundred and twenty-sixfeet. The easternmost island of the Palawan Group, Busvagan,17 was at the time just in sight from the deck, tothe southwest.

It had been my intention to anchor at Ambolou Island;18 but the wind died away before we reached it, andI determined to stand off and on all night.

On the 24th, I began to experience the truth of what Captain Halconhad asserted, namely, that the existing charts were entirely worthless,and I also found that my native pilot was of no more value than theywere: he had evidently passed the place before; but whether the size ofthe vessel, so much greater than any he had sailed in, confused him, orwhether it was from his inability to understand and to make himselfunderstood by us, he was of no use whatever, and we had the misfortuneof running into shoal water, barely escaping the bottom. These[133]dangers were usually quickly passed, and we soonfound ourselves again floating in thirty or forty fathoms water.

We continued beating to windward, in hopes of being joined by theFlying-Fish, and I resolved to finish the survey toward the island ofSemarrara.19 We found every thing in a different position fromthat assigned it by any of the charts20 with whichwe were furnished. On this subject, however, I shall not dwell, butrefer those who desire particular information to the charts andHydrographical Memoir.

Towards evening, I again ran down to the southwest point of theisland of Mindoro, and sent a letter on shore to the pueblo, withdirections to have it put on board the tender, when she should arrive.We then began to beat round Semarara, in order to pass over towardsPanay.

The southern part of Mindoro is much higher than the northern, butappears to be equally rough. It is, however, susceptible ofcultivation, and there are many villages along its shores.

Semarara is moderately high, and about fifteen miles incircumference; it is inhabited, and like Mindoro much wooded. Accordingto the native pilot, its shores are free from shoals. It was not until[134]the next day that we succeeded in reachingPanay. I determined to pass the night off Point Potol, the north end ofPanay, as I believed the sea in its neighborhood to be free of shoals,and wished to resume our running survey early in the morning.

At daylight on the 27th we continued the survey down the coast ofPanay, and succeeded in correcting many errors in the existing charts(both English and Spanish). The channel along this side is from twelveto twenty miles wide, and suitable for beating in; little current isbelieved to exist; and the tides, as far as our observations went, seemto be regular and of little strength.

The island of Panay is high and broken, particularly on the southend; its shores are thickly settled and well cultivated. Indigo andsugar-cane claim much of the attention of the inhabitants. The Indiansare the principal cultivators. They pay to the government a capitationtax of seven rials. Its population is estimated at three hundredthousand, which I think is rather short of the actual number.21

On all the hills there are telegraphs of rude construction, to giveinformation of the approach of piratical prahus from Sooloo, whichformerly were in the habit of making attacks upon the defencelessinhabitants and carrying them off into slavery. Of late years they haveceased these depredations, for the Spaniards have resorted to a newmode of warfare. Instead of pursuing and punishing the offenders, theynow intercept all their supplies, both of necessaries and luxuries; andthe fear of this has had the effect to deter the pirates from theirusual attacks. [135]

We remained off San Pedro for the night, in hopes of falling in withthe Flying-Fish in the morning.

On the morning of the 28th, the Flying-Fish was discovered plainlyin sight. I immediately stood for her, fired a gun and made signal. Atseven o’clock another gun was fired, but the vessel still stoodoff, and was seen to make sail to the westward without paying anyregard whatever to either, and being favoured by a breeze while theVincennes was becalmed, she stole off and was soon out ofsight.22

After breakfast we opened the bay of Antique, on which is situatedthe town of San José.23 As this bay apparently offeredanchorage for vessels bound up this coast, I determined to survey it;and for this purpose the boats were hoisted out and prepared forsurveying. Lieutenant Budd was despatched to visit the pueblo calledSan José.

On reaching the bay, the boats were sent to different points of it,and when they were in station, the ship fired guns to furnish bases bythe sound, and angles were simultaneously measured. The boats madesoundings on their return to the ship, and thus completed this duty, sothat in an hour or two afterwards the bay was correctly represented onpaper. It offers no more than a temporary anchorage for vessels, andunless the shore is closely approached, the water is almost too deepfor the purpose.

At San José a Spanish governor resides, who presides over thetwo pueblos of San Pedro and San [136]José, and does theduty also of alcalde. Lieutenant Budd did not see him, as he wasabsent, but his lady did the honours. Lieutenant Budd represented thepueblo as cleanly and orderly. About fifteen soldiers were seen, whocompose the governor’s guard, and more were said to be stationedat San Pedro. A small fort of eight guns commands the roadstead. Thebeach was found to be of fine volcanic sand, composed chiefly of oxideof iron, and comminuted shells; there is also a narrow shore-reef ofcoral. The plain bordering the sea is covered with a dense growth ofcocoa-nut trees. In the fine season the bay is secure, but we wereinformed that in westerly and southwesterly gales heavy seas set in,and vessels are not able to lie at anchor. Several small vessels werelying in a small river about one and a half miles to the southward ofthe point on which the fort is situated. The entrance to this river isvery narrow and tortuous.

Panay is one of the largest islands of the group. We had anopportunity of measuring the height of some of its western peaks orhighlands, none of which exceed three thousand feet.24 Theinterior and eastern side have many lofty summits, which are said toreach an altitude of seven thousand five hundred feet; but these, as wepassed, were enveloped in clouds, or shut out from view by the nearerhighlands. The general features of the island are like those of Luzonand Mindoro. The few specimens [137]we obtained of its rocksconsisted of the different varieties of talcose formation, with quartzand jasper. The specimens were of no great value, as they were muchworn by lying on the beach.

The higher land was bare of trees, and had it not been for thenumerous fertile valleys lying between the sharp and rugged spurs, itwould have had a sterile appearance.

The bay of Antique is in latitude 10° 40′ N., longitude121° 59′ 30″ E.

It was my intention to remain for two or three days at a convenientanchorage to enable us to make short excursions into the interior; butthe vexatious mismanagement of the tender now made it incumbent that Ishould make every possible use of the time to complete the operationsconnected with the hydrography of this sea; for I perceived that theduties that I intended should be performed by her, would now devolveupon the boats, and necessarily expose both officers and men to thehazard of contracting disease. I regretted giving up this design, notonly on my own account and that of the Expedition, but because of thegratification it would have afforded personally to the naturalists.

The town of San José has about thirty bamboo houses, some ofwhich are filled in with clay or mortar, and plastered over, bothinside and out. Few of them are more than a single story in height.That of the governor is of the same material, and overtops the rest; itis whitewashed, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. In the vicinityof the town are several beautiful valleys, which run into the mountainsfrom the plain that borders the bay. The landing is on a bamboo bridge,which has been [138]erected over an extensive mud-flat, that isexposed at low water, and prevents any nearer approach of boats. Thisbridge is about seven hundred feet in length; and a novel plan has beenadopted to preserve it from being carried away. The stems of bamboo notbeing sufficiently large and heavy to maintain the superstructure inthe soft mud, a scaffold is constructed just under the top, which isloaded with blocks of large stone, and the outer piles are secured toanchors or rocks, with grass rope. The roadway or top is ten feet wide,covered with split bamboo, woven together, and has rails on each side,to assist the passenger. This is absolutely necessary for safety; andeven with this aid, one accustomed to it must be possessed of no littlebodily strength to pass over this smooth, slippery, and springy bridgewithout accident.

Two pirogues were at anchor in the bay, and on the shore was theframe of a vessel which had evidently been a long while on the stocks,for the weeds and bushes near the keel were six or eight feet high, anda portion of the timbers were decayed. Carts and sleds drawn bybuffaloes were in use, and every thing gave it the appearance of athriving village. Although I have mentioned the presence of soldiers,it was observed on landing that no guard was stationed about or even atthe fort; but shortly afterwards a soldier was seen hurrying towardsthe latter, in the act of dressing himself in his regimentals, andanother running by his side, with his cartridge-box and musket. In alittle while one was passing up and down on his post, as though he wasas permanent there as the fort itself.

After completing these duties, the light airs [139]detained us the remainder of the day underPanay, in sight of the bay. On the 29th, at noon, we had been wafted byit far enough in the offing to obtain the easterly breeze, which soonbecame strong, with an overcast sky, and carried us rapidly on ourcourse; my time would not permit my heaving-to. We kept on our coursefor Mindanao during the whole night, and were constantly engaged insounding, with our patent lead, with from thirty to forty fathoms cast,to prevent our passing over this part of the sea entirelyunexamined.

At daybreak on the 31st, we had the island of Mindanao before us,but did not reach its western peak until 5 P.M. This island is high and broken, like those to the north ofit, but, unlike them, its mountains are covered with forests to theirvery tops, and there were no distinct cones of minor dimensions, as wehad observed on the others. If they do exist, they were hidden by thedense forest.

I had determined to anchor at Caldera, a small port on the southwestside of Mindanao, about ten miles distant from Samboangan, where thegovernor resides. The latter is a considerable place, but the anchoragein its roadstead is said to be bad, and the currents that run throughthe Straits of Basillan are represented to be strong. Caldera, on theother hand, has a good, though small anchorage, which is free from thecurrents of the straits. It is therefore an excellent stopping-place,in case of the tide proving unfavourable. On one of its points stands asmall fort, which on our arrival hoisted Spanish colours.

At six o’clock we came to anchor at Caldera, in seven fathomswater. There were few indications of inhabitants, except at and nearthe fort. An officer [140]was despatched to the fort, to report theship. It was found to be occupied by a few soldiers under the commandof a lieutenant.

The fort is about seventy feet square, and is built of large blocksof red coral, which evidently have not been taken from the vicinity ofthe place, as was stated by the officers of the fort; for, although ourparties wandered along the alluvial beach for two or three miles ineach direction, no signs of coral were observed. Many fragments of red,gray, and purple basalt and porphyry were met with along the beach;talcose rock and slate, syenite, hornblend, quartz, both compact andslaty, with chalcedony, were found in pieces and large pebbles. Thosewho were engaged in dredging reported the bottom as being of coral, infrom four to six or eight fathoms; but this was of a different kindfrom that of which the fort was constructed.

The fort was built in the year 1784,25 principallyfor protection against the Sooloo pirates, who were in the habit ofvisiting the settlements, and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves,to obtain ransom for them. This, and others of the same description,were therefore constructed as places of refuge for the inhabitants, aswell as to afford protection to vessels.

Depredations are still committed, which render it necessary to keepup a small force. One or two huts which were seen in the neighbourhoodof the bay, are built on posts twenty feet from the ground, and intothem they ascend by ladders, which are hauled up after the occupantshave entered. [141]

These, it is said, are the sleeping-huts, and are so built for thepurpose of preventing surprise at night. Before our arrival we hadheard that the villages were all so constructed, but a visit to onesoon showed that this was untrue. The natives seen at the village werethought to be of a decidedly lighter colour and a somewhat differentexpression from the Malays. They were found to be very civil, and morepolished in manners than our gentlemen expected. On asking for a drinkof water, it was brought on a glass tumbler on a china plate. An oldwoman to whom they had presented some trifles, took the trouble to meetthem in another path on their return, and insisted on their accepting abasket of potatoes. Some of the houses contained several families, andmany of them had no other means of entrance than a notched stick stuckon to the door.

The forests of Mindanao contain a great variety of trees, some ofwhich are of large size, rising to the height of one hundred and onehundred and fifty feet. Some of their trunks are shaped likebuttresses, similar to those before spoken of at Manilla, from whichthey obtain broad slabs for the tops of tables. The trunks wereobserved to shoot up remarkably straight. Our botanical gentlemen,though pleased with the excursion, were disappointed at not being ableto procure specimens from the lofty trees; and the day was lessproductive in this respect than they had anticipated. Large woody vineswere common, which enveloped the trunks of trees in their folds, andascending to their tops, prevented the collection of the most desirablespecimens.

The paths leading to the interior were narrow and much obstructed;one fine stream was crossed. [142]Many buffaloes were observedwallowing in the mire, and the woods swarmed with monkeys and numbersof birds, among them the horn-bills: these kept up a continued chatter,and made a variety of loud noises. The forests here are entirelydifferent from any we had seen elsewhere; and the stories of theirbeing the abodes of large boas and poisonous snakes, make the effectstill greater on those who visit them for the first time. Our parties,however, saw nothing of these reptiles, nor any thing to warrant abelief that such exist. Yet the officer at the fort related to me manysnake stories that seemed to have some foundation; and by inquiriesmade elsewhere, I learned that they were at least warranted by somefacts, though probably not to the extent that he represented.

Traces of deer and wild hogs were seen, and many birds wereobtained, as well as land and sea shells. Among the latter was theMalleus vulgaris, which is used as food by the natives. The soil onthis part of the island is a stiff clay, and the plants it produces aremostly woody; those of an herbaceous character were scarce, and only afew orchideous epiphytes and ferns were seen. Around the dwellings inthe villages were a variety of vegetables and fruits, consisting ofsugar-cane, sweet-potato, gourds, pumpkins, peppers, rice, water andmusk melons, all fine and of large size.

The officer of the fort was a lieutenant of infantry: one of thatrank is stationed here for a month, after which he, with the garrison,consisting of three soldiers, are relieved, from Samboángan,where the Spaniards have three companies.

Samboangan is a convict settlement, to which the [143]native rogues, principally thieves, are sent.The Spanish criminals, as I have before stated in speaking of Manilla,are sent to Spain.

The inhabitants of the island of Mindanao who are under thesubjection of Spain, are about ten thousand in number, of whom five orsix thousand are at or in the neighbourhood of Samboangan. The originalinhabitants, who dwell in the mountains and on the east coast, are saidto be quite black, and are represented to be a very cruel and bad set;they have hitherto bid defiance to all attempts to subjugate them. Whenthe Spaniards make excursions into the interior, which is seldom, theyalways go in large parties on account of the wild beasts, serpents, andhostile natives; nevertheless, the latter frequently attack and drivethem back.

The little fort is considered as a sufficient protection for thefishermen and small vessels against the pirates, who inhabit the islandof Basillan, which is in sight from Mindanao, and forms the southernside of the straits of the same name. It is said that about sevenhundred inhabit it. The name of Moor is given by the Spaniards to allthose who profess the Mohammedan religion, and by such all the islandsto the west of Mindanao, and known under the name of the SoolooArchipelago, are inhabited.

The day we spent at Caldera was employed in surveying the bay, andin obtaining observations for its geographical position, and formagnetism. The flood tide sets to the northward and westward, throughthe straits, and the ebb to the eastward. In the bay we found it to runtwo miles an hour by the log, but it must be much more rapid in thestraits.

At daylight on the 1st of February, we got under [144]wayto stand over for the Sangboys,26 a small island with twosharp hills on it. One and a half miles from the bay we passed over abank, the least water on which was ten fathoms on a sandy bottom, andon which a vessel might anchor. The wind shortly after failed us, andwe drifted with the tide for some hours, in full view of the island ofMindanao, which is bold and picturesque. We had thus a good opportunityof measuring some of its mountain ranges, which we made about threethousand feet high.

In the afternoon, a light breeze came from the southwest, and beforesunset I found that we were again on soundings. As soon as we had acast of twenty fathoms, I anchored for the night, judging it muchbetter than to be drifting about without any knowledge of the localityand currents to which we were subjected.

On the morning of the 2d, we got under way to proceed to thewestward. As the bottom was unequal, I determined to pass through thebroadest channel, although it had the appearance of being the shoalest,and sent two boats ahead to sound. In this way we passed through,continuing our surveying operations, and at the same time made anattempt to dredge; but the ground was too uneven for the latterpurpose, and little of value was obtained.

Shortly after passing the Sangboys, we had the island of Sooloo insight, for which I now steered direct. At sunset we found ourselveswithin five or six miles of Soung Harbour; but there was not sufficient[145]light to risk the dangers that might be in ourcourse, nor wind enough to command the ship; and having no bottom wherewe were, I determined again to run out to sea, and anchor on the firstbank I should meet. At half past eight o’clock, we strucksoundings in twenty-six fathoms, and anchored.

At daylight we continued our position by angles, and found it tocorrespond with part of the route we had passed over the day before,and that we were about fifteen miles from the large island of Sooloo.Weighing anchor, we were shortly wafted by the westerly tide and alight air toward that beautiful island, which lay in the midst of itslittle archipelago; and as we were brought nearer and nearer, we cameto the conclusion that in our many wanderings we had seen nothing to becompared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to be well cultivated,with gentle slopes rising here and there into eminences from one to twothousand feet high. One or two of these might be dignified with thename of mountains, and were sufficiently high to arrest the passingclouds; on the afternoon of our arrival we had a singular example inthe dissipation of a thunderstorm.

Although much of the island was under cultivation, yet it had allthe freshness of a forest region. The many smokes on the hills,buildings of large size, cottages, and cultivated spots, together withthe moving crowds on the land, the prahus, canoes, and fishing-boats onthe water, gave the whole a civilized appearance. Our own vessel lay,almost without a ripple at her side, on the glassy surface of the sea,carried onwards to our destined anchorage by the flowing tide, andscarce a sound was heard except [146]the splashing of the lead asit sought the bottom. The effect of this was destroyed in part by theknowledge that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a cruel andbarbarous race of pirates. Towards sunset we had nearly reached the bayof Soung, when we were met by the opposing tide, which frustrated allour endeavors to reach it, and I was compelled to anchor, lest weshould again be swept to sea.

As soon as the night set in, fishermen’s lights were seenmoving along the beach in all directions, and gliding about in canoes,while the sea was filled with myriads of phosphorescentanimalculæ. After watching this scene for two or three hours inthe calm and still night, a storm that had been gathering reached us;but it lasted only for a short time, and cleared off after a shower,which gave the air a freshness that was delightful after the sultryheat we had experienced during the day.

The canoes of this archipelago were found to be different from anythat we had hitherto seen, not only in shape but in making use of adouble out-rigger, which consequently must give them additionalsecurity. The paddle also is of a different shape, and has a blade ateach end, which are used alternately, thus enabling a single person tomanage them with ease. These canoes are built of a single log, thoughsome are built upon. They seldom carry more than two persons. Theannexed figure will give a correct figure of one of them.27

We saw the fishermen engaged in trolling and using the line; but themanner of taking fish which has been hitherto described is chieflypractised.28 [147]In fishing, as well as in alltheir other employments, the kris and spear were invariably by theirside.

The next morning at eight o’clock we got under way, and weretowed by our boats into the bay of Soung,29 where weanchored off the town in nine fathoms water. While in the act of doingso, and after our intentions had become too evident to admit of adoubt, the Sultan graciously sent off a message giving us permission toenter his port.

Lieutenant Budd was immediately despatched with the interpreter tocall upon the Datu Mulu or governor, and to learn at what hour we couldsee the Sultan. When that officer reached the town, all were foundasleep; and after remaining four hours waiting, the only answer hecould get out of the Datu Mulu was, that he supposed that the Sultanwould be awake at three o’clock, when he thought I could seehim.

During this time the boats had been preparing for surveying; andafter landing the naturalists, they began the work.

At the appointed time, Captain Hudson and myself went on shore towait upon the Sultan. On our approach to the town, we found that agreat portion of it was built over the water on piles, and onlyconnected with the shore by narrow bridges of bamboo. The style ofbuilding in Sooloo does not differ materially from that of the Malays.The houses are [148]rather larger, and they surpass the others infilth.30

We passed for some distance between the bridges to the landing, andon our way saw several piratical prahus apparently laid up. Twenty ofthese were counted, of about thirty tons burden, evidently built forsea-vessels, and capable of mounting one or two long guns. We landed ata small streamlet, and walked a short distance to the Datu’shouse, which is of large dimensions and rudely built on piles, whichraise it about six feet above the ground, and into which we wereinvited. The house of the Datu contains one room, part of which isscreened off to form the apartment of his wife. Nearly in the center isa raised dais, eight or ten feet square, under which are stowed all hisvaluables, packed in chests and Chinese trunks. Upon this dais areplaced mats for sleeping, with cushions, pillows, &c.; and over itis a sort of canopy, hung round with fine chintz or muslin.

The dais was occupied by the Datu who is, next to the Sultan, thegreatest man of this island. He at once came from it to receive us, andhad chairs provided for us near his sanctum. After we were seated, heagain retired to his lounge. The Datu is small in person, and emaciatedin form, but has a quick eye and an intelligent countenance. He lives,as he told me, with all his goods around him, and they formed acollection such as I could scarcely imagine it possible to bringtogether in such a place. The interior put me in mind of a barninhabited by a company of strolling players. On one side were hung up acollection of various kinds of gay dresses, here drums [149]andgongs, there swords, lanterns, spears, muskets, and small cannon; onanother side were shields, bucklers, masks, saws, and wheels, withbelts, bands, and long robes. The whole was a strange mixture oftragedy and farce; and the group of natives were not far removed inappearance from the supernumeraries that a Turkish tragedy might havebrought together in the green-room of a theatre.

A set of more cowardly-looking miscreants I never saw. They appearedready either to trade with us, pick our pockets, or cut our throats, asan opportunity might offer.

The wife’s apartment was not remarkable for its comforts,although the Datu spoke of it with much consideration, and evidentlyheld his better half in high estimation. He was also proud of his sixchildren, the youngest of whom he brought out in its nurse’sarms, and exhibited with much pride and satisfaction. He particularlydrew my attention to its little highly-wrought and splendidly-mountedkris, which was stuck through its girdle, as an emblem of his rank. Itwas in reality a fine-looking child. The kitchen was behind the house,and occupied but a small space, for they have little in the way of foodthat requires much preparation. The house of the Datu might justly betermed nasty.

We now learned the reason why the Sultan could not be seen: it wasFriday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, and he had been at the mosque from anearly hour.31 Lieutenant Budd had been detained, because it wasnot known when he would finish his prayers; and the ceremonies of theday were more important [150]than usual, on account of itspeculiar sanctity in their calendar.

Word had been sent off to the ship that the Sultan was ready toreceive me, but the messenger passed us while on our way to the shore.After we had been seated for a while, the Datu asked if we were readyto accompany him to see the Sultan; but intimated that no one butCaptain Hudson and myself could be permitted to lay eyes on him. Beinginformed that we were, he at once, and in our presence, slipped on hissilken trousers, and a new jacket, covered with bell-buttons; put onhis slippers, strapped himself round with a long silken net sash, intowhich he stuck his kris, and, with umbrella in hand, said he was ready.He now led the way out of his house, leaving the motley group behind,and we took the path to the interior of the town, towards theSultan’s. The Datu and I walked hand in hand, on a roadway aboutten feet wide, with a small stream running on each side. Captain Hudsonand the interpreter came next, and a guard of six trusty slaves broughtup the rear.

When we reached the outskirts of the town, about half a mile fromthe Datu’s, we came to the Sultan’s residence, where he wasprepared to receive us in state. His house is constructed in the samemanner as that of the Datu, but is of larger dimensions, and the pilesare rather higher. Instead of steps, we found a ladder, rudelyconstructed of bamboo, and very crazy. This was so steep that it wasnecessary to use the hands in mounting it. I understood that the ladderwas always removed in the night, for the sake of security. We enteredat once into the presence-chamber, where the whole divan, if such itmay be called, sat in arm chairs, occupying the half of a [151]large round table, covered with a white cottoncloth. On the opposite side of the table, seats were placed for us. Onour approach, the Sultan and all his council rose, and motioned us toour seats. When we had taken them, the part of the room behind us wasliterally crammed with well-armed men. A few minutes were passed insilence, during which time we had an opportunity of looking at eachother, and around the hall in which we were seated. The latter was ofvery common workmanship, and exhibited no signs of orientalmagnificence. Overhead hung a printed cotton cloth, forming a kind oftester, which covered about half of the apartment. In other places theroof and rafters were visible. A part of the house was roughlypartitioned off, to the height of nine or ten feet, enclosing, as I wasafterwards told, the Sultan’s sleeping apartment, and thatappropriated to his wife and her attendants.

The Sultan is of the middle height, spare and thin; he was dressedin a white cotton shirt, loose trousers of the same material, andslippers; he had no stockings; the bottom of his trousers was worked inscollops with blue silk, and this was the only ornament I saw abouthim. On his head he wore a small coloured cotton handkerchief, woundinto a turban, that just covered the top of his head. His eyes werebloodshot, and had an uneasy wild look, showing that he was under theeffects of opium, of which they all smoke large quantities.32 His teeth were as black as ebony, which, with hisbright cherry-coloured lips, contrasted with his swarthy skin, gave himanything but a pleasant look.

On the left hand of the Sultan sat his two sons, [152]while his right was occupied by his councillors;just behind him, sat the carrier of his betel-nut casket. The casketwas of filigree silver, about the size of a small tea-caddy, of oblongshape, and rounded at the top. It had three divisions, one for theleaf, another for the nut, and a third for the lime.33 Next tothis official was the pipe-bearer, who did not appear to be held insuch estimation as the former.

I opened the conversation by desiring that the Datu would explainthe nature of our visit, and tell the Sultan that I had come to makethe treaty which he had some time before desired to form with theUnited States.34

The Sultan replied, that such was still his desire; upon which Itold him, I would draw one up for him, that same day. While I wasexplaining to him the terms, a brass candlestick was brought in with alighted tallow candle, of a very dark colour and rude shape, thatshowed but little art in the manufacture. This was placed in the centerof the table, with a plate of Manilla cigars. None of them, however,were offered to us, nor any kind of refreshment.

Our visit lasted nearly an hour. When we arose to take our leave,the Sultan and his divan did the same, and we made our exit with lowbows on each side.

I looked upon it as a matter of daily occurrence for all those whocame to the island to visit the Sultan; [153]but the Datu Mulutook great pains to make me believe that a great favour had beengranted in allowing us a sight of his ruler. On the other hand, I dweltupon the condescension it was on my part to visit him, and I refused toadmit that I was under any gratitude or obligation for the sight of HisMajesty the Sultan Mohammed Damaliel Kisand, but said that he mightfeel grateful to me if he signed the treaty I would prepare forhim.

On our return from the Sultan’s to the Datu Mulu’shouse, we found even a greater crowd than before. The Datu, however,contrived to get us seats. The attraction which drew it together was tolook at Mr. Agate, who was making a sketch of Mohammed Polalu, theSultan’s son, and next heir to the throne.35 I had hopedto procure one of the Sultan, but this was declared to be impossible.The son, however, has all the characteristics of the Sooloos, and thelikeness was thought an excellent one. Mohammed Polalu is abouttwenty-three years of age, of a tall slender figure, with a long face,heavy and dull eyes, as though he was constantly under the influence ofopium.36 So much, indeed, [154]was he addicted tothe use of this drug, even according to the Datu Mulu’s accounts,that his strength and constitution were very much impaired. As he iskept particularly under the guardianship of the Datu, the latter has astrong interest in preserving this influence over him, and seems onthis account to afford him every opportunity of indulging in thisdeplorable habit.

During our visit, the effect of a pipe of this drug was seen uponhim; for but a short time after he had reclined himself on theDatu’s couch and cushion, and taken a few whiffs, he was entirelyovercome, stupid, and listless. I had never seen any one so young,bearing such evident marks of the effects of this deleterious drug.When but partially recovered from its effects he called for hisbetel-nut, to revive him by its exciting effects. This was carefullychewed by his attendant to a proper consistency, moulded in a ballabout the size of a walnut, and then slipped into the mouth of the heirapparent.

One of the requests I had made of the Sultan was, that the officersmight have guides to pass over the [155]island. This was at once saidto be too dangerous to be attempted, as the datus of the interior andsouthern towns would in all probability attack the parties. Iunderstood what this meant, and replied that I was quite willing totake the responsibility, and that the party should be well armed. Tothis the Sultan replied, that he would not risk his own men. This I sawwas a mere evasion, but it was difficult and would be dangerous for ourgentlemen to proceed alone, and I therefore said no more. On our returnto the Datu’s, I gave them permission to get as far from thebeach as they could, but I was afterwards informed by them that inendeavoring to penetrate into the woods, they were always stopped byarmed men. This was also the case when they approached particular partsof the town, but they were not molested as long as their rambles wereconfined to the beach. At the Datu’s we were treated to chocolateand negus in gilt-edge tumblers, with small stale cakes, which had beenbrought from Manilla.

After we had sat some time I was informed that Mr. Dana missed hisbowie-knife pistol, which he had for a moment laid down on a chest. Iat once came to the conclusion that it had been stolen, and as thetheft had occurred in the Datu’s house, I determined to hold himresponsible for it, and gave him at once to understand that I should doso, informing him that the pistol must be returned before the nextmorning, or he must take the consequences. This threw him into someconsternation, and by my manner he felt that I was serious.

Captain Hudson and myself, previous to my return on board, visitedthe principal parts of the town. The Chinese quarter is separated by abody of water, [156]and has a gateway that leads to a bridge. Thebridge is covered by a roof, and on each side of it are small shops,which are open in front, and thus expose the goods they contain. In therear of the shops were the dwellings of the dealers. This sort ofbazaar contained but a very scanty assortment, and the goods were ofinferior quality.

We visited some blacksmith-shops, where they were manufacturingkrises and spears. These shops were open sheds; the fire was made uponthe ground, and two wooden cylinders, whose valves were in the bottom,served for bellows; when used, they had movable pistons which wereworked by a man on an elevated seat, and answered the purpose betterthan could have been expected.

The kris is a weapon in which this people take great pride; it is ofvarious shapes and sizes, and is invariably worn from infancy to oldage; they are generally wavy in their blades, and are worn in woodenscabbards, which are neatly made and highly polished. This weapon isrepresented in the tailpiece to this chapter.

The market was well stocked with fruit and fish, Among the formerthe durian seemed to predominate; this was the first time we had seenit. It has a very disagreeable odour, as if decayed, and appears toemit a sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which I observed blackened silver.Some have described this fruit as delicious, but if the smell is notenough, the taste in my opinion will convince any one of thecontrary.

Mr. Brackenridge made the following list of their fruits: Durian,Artocarpus integrifolia, Melons, water and musk, Oranges, mandarin andbitter, Pine-apples, [157]Carica papaya, Mangosteen, Breadfruit,Cocoa and Betel-nut. The vegetables were capsic*ms, cucumbers, yams,sweet-potatoes, garlic, onions, edible fern-roots, and radishes of thesalmon variety, but thicker and more acrid in flavour.

In walking about the streets of the town we were permitted to enter,large slabs of cut granite were seen, which were presumed to be fromChina, where the walls of canals or streamlets are lined with it. ButDr. Pickering in his rambles discovered pieces that had been cut as ifto form a monument, and remarked a difference between it and theChinese kind. On one or two pieces he saw the mark No. 1, in blackpaint; the material resembled the Chelmsford granite, and it occurredto him that the stone had been cut in Boston.37 I did nothear of this circ*mstance until after we had left Sooloo, and havelittle doubt now that the interdiction against our gentlemen visitingsome parts of the town was owing to the fact of the discovery of thisplunder. This may have been the reason why they so readily compliedwith my demands, in order to get rid of us as soon as possible, feelingthemselves guilty, and being unprepared for defence; for, of thenumerous guns mounted, few if any were serviceable.

The theft of the pistol was so barefaced an affair, that I made upmy mind to insist on its restoration. At the setting of the watch inthe evening, it had been our practice on board the Vincennes to fire asmall brass howitzer. This frequently, in the calm [158]evenings, produced a great reverberation, androlled along the water to the surrounding islands with considerablenoise. Instead of it, on this evening, I ordered one of the long gunsto be fired, believing that the sound and reverberation alone wouldsuffice to intimidate such robbers. One was accordingly fired in thedirection of the town, which fairly shook the island, as they said, andit was not long before we saw that the rogues were fully aroused, forthe clatter of gongs and voices that came over the water, and themotion of lights, convinced me that the pistol would be forthcoming inthe morning. In this I was not mistaken, for at early daylight I wasawakened by a special messenger from the Datu to tell me that thepistol was found, and would be brought off without delay; that he hadbeen searching for it all night, and had succeeded at last in findingit, as well as the thief, on whom he intended to inflict the bastinado.Accordingly, in a short time the pistol was delivered on board, andevery expression of friendship and good-will given, with the strongestassurances that nothing of the kind should happen again.

As our naturalists could have no opportunity of rambling over theisland of Sooloo, it was thought that one of the neighbouring islands(although not so good a field) would afford them many of the sameresults, and that they could examine it unmolested. Accordingly, at anearly hour, they were despatched in boats for that purpose, with asufficient guard to attend them in case of necessity. The island onwhich they landed is called Marongas38 on the mapof the [159]group annexed to this chapter. On it are twohills of volcanic conglomerate and vesicular lava, containing angularfragments embedded. The bottom was covered with living coral, of everyvariety, and of different colours; but there was nothing like a regularcoral shelf, and the beach was composed of bits of coral intermixedwith dead shells, both entire and comminuted. The centre of the islandwas covered with mangrove-bushes; the hills were cones, but had nocraters on them. The mangroves had grown in clusters, giving theappearance of a number of small islands. This, with the neighbouringislets, were thought to be composed in a great part of coral, but itwas impossible for our gentlemen to determine the fact.

The day was exceedingly hot, and the island was suffering to such adegree from drought that the leaves in many cases were curled andappeared dry. On the face of the rocky cliff they saw many swallows(hirundo esculenta) flying in and out of the caverns facing the sea;but they were not fortunate enough to find any of the edible nests, somuch esteemed by Chinese epicures.

At another part of the island they heard the crowing of a co*ck, anddiscovered a small village, almost hidden by the mangroves, and builtover the water. In the neighbourhood were several fish-baskets set outto dry, as well as a quantity of fencing for weirs, all made of rattan.Their shape was somewhat peculiar. After a little while the nativefishermen were seen approaching, who evidently had a knowledge of theirvisit from the first. They came near with great caution in theircanoes; but after the first had spoken and reconnoitred, several otherslanded, [160]exhibiting no signs of embarrassment, and soonmotioned our party off. To indicate that force would be resorted to, incase of refusal, at the same time they pointed to their arms, and drewtheir krises. Our gentlemen took this all in good part, and afterdispensing a few trifling presents among them, began their retreat witha convenient speed, without, however, compromising their dignity.

The excursion had been profitable in the way of collections, havingyielded a number of specimens of shrubs and trees, both in flower andfruit; but owing to the drought, the herbaceous plants were, for themost part, dried up. Among the latter, however, they saw a large andfine terrestrial species of Epidendrum, whose stem grew to the heightof several feet, and when surmounted by its flowers reached twelve orfifteen feet high. Many of the salt-marsh plants seen in the Feejees,were also observed here. Besides the plants, some shells and abeautiful cream-coloured pigeon were obtained.

During the day we were busily engaged in the survey of the harbour,and in making astronomical and magnetical observations on the beach,while some of the officers were employed purchasing curiosities, onshore, at the town, and alongside the ship. These consisted of krises,spears, shields, and shells; and the Sooloos were not slow incomprehending the kind of articles we were in search of.

Few if any of the Sooloos39 can write or read, though manyspeak Spanish. Their accounts are all [161]kept by the slaves.Those who can read and write are, in consequence, highly prized. Allthe accounts of the Datu of Soung are kept in Dutch, by a young Malayfrom Ternate, who writes a good hand, and speaks English, and whom wefound exceedingly useful to us. He is the slave of the Datu, whoemploys him for this purpose only. He told us he was captured in a brigby the pirates of Basillan, and sold here as a slave, where he islikely to remain for life, although he says the Datu has promised togive him his freedom after ten years.

Horses, cows and buffaloes are the beasts of burden, and a Sooloomay usually be seen riding either one or the other, armed cap-a-pie,with kris, spear, and target, or shield.

They use saddles cut out of solid wood, and many ride with theirstirrups so short that they bring the knees very high, and the riderslook more like well-grown monkeys than mounted men. The cows andbuffaloes are guided by a piece of thong, through the cartilage of thenose. By law, no swine are allowed to be kept on the island, and if anyare brought, they are immediately killed. The Chinese are obliged toraise and kill their pigs very secretly, when they desire that speciesof food; for, notwithstanding the law and the prejudices of theinhabitants, the former continue to keep swine.

The inhabitants of Sooloo are a tall, thin, and effeminate-lookingrace: I do not recollect to have seen one corpulent person among them.Their faces are peculiar for length, particularly in the lower jaw andchin, with high cheek-bones, sunken, lack-lustre eyes, and narrowforeheads. Their heads are thinly covered with hair, which appears tobe kept closely [162]cropped. I was told that they pluck outtheir beards, and dye their teeth black with antimony.

Their eyebrows appear to be shaven, forming a very regular and higharch, which they esteem a great beauty.

The dress of the common people is very much like that of theChinese, with loose and full sleeves, without buttons. The materials ofwhich it is made are grass-cloth, silks, satins, or white cotton, fromChina. I should judge, from the appearance of their persons, that theyought to be termed, so far as ablutions go, a cleanly people. There isno outward respect or obeisance shown by the slave to his master, noris the presence of the Datu, or even of the Sultan himself, held in anyawe. All appear upon an equality, and there does not seem to be anycontrolling power; yet it may be at once perceived that they aresuspicious and jealous of strangers.

The Sooloos, although they are ready to do any thing for the sake ofplunder, even to the taking of life, yet are not disposed to hoardtheir ill-gotten wealth, and, with all their faults, cannot be termedavaricious.

They have but few qualities to redeem their treachery, cruelty, andrevengeful dispositions; and one of the principal causes of their beingso predominant, or even of their existence, is their inordinate lustfor power. When they possess this, it is accompanied by a haughty,consequential, and ostentatious bravery. No greater affront can beoffered to a Sooloo, than to underrate his dignity and officialconsequence. Such an insult is seldom forgiven, and never forgotten.From one who has made numerous voyages to these islands, I haveobtained many of the above facts, [163]and my own observationassures me that this view of their character is a correct one. I would,however, add another trait, which is common among them, and that iscowardice, which is obvious, in spite of their boasted prowess anddaring. This trait of character is universally ascribed to them amongthe Spaniards in the Philippines, who ought to be well acquainted withthem.

The dress of the women is not unlike that of the men in appearance.They wear close jackets of various colours when they go abroad, and thesame loose breeches as the men, but over them they usually have a largewrapper (sarong), not unlike the pareu of the Polynesian islanders,which is put round them like a petticoat, or thrown over the shoulders.Their hair is drawn to the back of the head, and around the forehead itis shaven in the form of a regular arch to correspond with theeyebrows. Those that I saw at the Sultan’s were like the Malays,and had light complexions with very black teeth. The Datu thought themvery handsome, and on our return he asked me if I had seen theSultan’s beauties. The females of Sooloo have the reputation ofruling their lords, and possess much weight in the government by theinfluence they exert over their husbands.

It may be owing to this that there is little jealousy of theirwives, who are said to hold their virtues in no very great estimation.In their houses they are but scantily clothed, though women of rankhave always a large number of rings on their fingers, some of which areof great value, as well as earrings of fine gold. They wear nostockings, but have on Chinese slippers, or Spanish shoes. They are ascapable of governing as their husbands, and in many cases more[164]so, as they associate with the slaves, from whomthey obtain some knowledge of Christendom, and of the habits andcustoms of other nations, which they study to imitate in every way.

The mode in which the Sooloos employ their time may be exemplifiedby giving that of the Datu; for all, whether free or slave, endeavor toimitate the higher rank as far as is in their power. The datus seldomrise before eleven o’clock, unless they have some particularbusiness; and the Datu Mulu complained of being sleepy in consequenceof the early hour at which we had disturbed him.

On rising, they have chocolate served in gilt glass-ware, with somelight biscuit, and sweetmeats imported from China or Manilla, of whichthey informed me they laid in large supplies. They then lounge abouttheir houses, transacting a little business, and playing at variousgames, or, in the trading season, go to the meeting of the RumaBechara.

At sunset they take their principal meal, consisting of stews offish, poultry, beef, eggs, and rice, prepared somewhat after theChinese and Spanish modes, mixed up with that of the Malay. AlthoughMoslems, they do not forego the use of wine, and some are said toindulge in it to a great extent. After sunset, when the air has becomesomewhat cooled by the refreshing breezes, they sally forth attended bytheir retainers to take a walk, or proceed to the bazaars to purchasegoods, or to sell or to barter away their articles of produce. Theythen pay visits to their friends, when they are in the habit of havingfrequent convivial parties, talking over their bargains, smokingcigars, drinking wine and liquors, tea, coffee, and chocolate, andindulging in their [165]favorite pipe of opium. At times they areentertained with music, both vocal and instrumental, by theirdependants. Of this art they appear to be very fond, and there are manymusical instruments among them. A datu, indeed, would be looked upon asuneducated if he could not play on some instrument.

It is considered polite that when refreshments are handed theyshould be partaken of. Those offered us by the Datu were such as areusual, but every thing was stale. Of fruit they are said to be veryfond, and can afford to indulge themselves in some kinds. With allthese articles to cloy the appetite, only one set meal a day is taken;though the poorer classes, fishermen and labourers, partake of two.

The government of the Sooloo Archipelago is a kind of oligarchy, andthe supreme authority is vested in the Sultan and the Ruma Bechara ortrading council. This consists of about twenty chiefs, either datus, ortheir next in rank, called orangs,40 who are governors of townsor detached provinces. The influence of the individual chiefs dependschiefly upon the number of their retainers or slaves, and the forcethey can bring into their service when they require it. These arepurchased from the pirates, who bring them to Sooloo and itsdependencies for sale. The slaves are employed in a variety of ways, asin trading prahus, in the pearl and biche de mar41 fisheries,and in the search after the edible birds’-nests.

A few are engaged in agriculture, and those who [166]areat all educated are employed as clerks. These slaves are not denied theright of holding property, which they enjoy during their lives, but attheir death it reverts to the master. Some of them are quite rich, andwhat may appear strange, the slaves of Sooloo are invariably better offthan the untitled freemen, who are at all times the prey of thehereditary datus, even of those who hold no official stations. By allaccounts these constitute a large proportion of the population, and itbeing treason for any low-born freeman to injure or maltreat a datu,the latter, who are of a haughty, overbearing, and tyrannicaldisposition, seldom keep themselves within bounds in their treatment oftheir inferiors. The consequence is, the lower class of freemen areobliged to put themselves under the protection of some particular datu,which guards them from the encroachment of others. The chief to whomthey thus attach themselves, is induced to treat them well, in order toretain their services, and attach them to his person, that he may, incase of need, be enabled to defend himself from depredations, and theviolence of his neighbours.

Such is the absence of legal restraint, that all find it necessaryto go abroad armed, and accompanied by a trusty set of followers, whoare also armed. This is the case both by day and night, and accordingto the Datu’s account, frequent affrays take place in the openstreets, which not unfrequently end in bloodshed.

Caution is never laid aside, the only law that exists being that offorce; but the weak contrive to balance the power of the strong byuniting. They have not only contentions and strife among themselves,but [167]it was stated at Manilla that the mountaineersof Sooloo, who are said to be Christians, occasionally make inroadsupon them. At Sooloo, however, it did not appear that they were muchunder apprehension of these attacks. The only fear I heard expressedwas by the Sultan, in my interview with him; and the cause of this, asI have already stated, was probably a desire to find an excuse for notaffording us facilities to go into the interior. Within twenty years,however, the reigning Sultan has been obliged to retire within hisforts, in the town of Sooloo, which I have before adverted to.

These people are hostile to the Sooloos of the coasts and towns, whotake every opportunity to rob them of their cattle and property, forwhich the mountaineers seek retaliation when they have an opportunity.From the manner in which the Datu spoke of them, they are not muchregarded. Through another source I learned that the mountaineers werePapuans, and the original inhabitants of the islands, who pay tributeto the Sultan, and have acknowledged his authority ever since they wereconverted to Islamism.42 Before that time they wereconsidered extremely ferocious, and whenever it was practicable theywere destroyed. Others speak of an original race of Dyacks in theinterior, but there is one circ*mstance to satisfy me that there is noconfidence to be placed in this account, namely, that the island is notof sufficient extent to accommodate so numerous a population as someascribe to it.

The forts consist of a double row of piles, filled in [168]withcoral blocks. That situated on the east side of the small stream may besaid to mount a few guns, but these are altogether inefficient; and inanother, on the west side, which is rather a rude embankment than afort, there are some twelve or fifteen pieces of large calibre; but Idoubt very much if they had been fired off for years, and many of thehouses built upon the water would require to be pulled down beforethese guns could be brought to bear upon any thing on the side of thebay, supposing them to be in a good condition; a little farther to theeast of the town, I was informed they had a kind of stockade, but noneof us were permitted to see it.

According to our estimates, and the information we received while atSooloo, the island itself does not contain more than thirty thousandinhabitants, of which the town of Soung may have six or seven thousand.The whole group may number about one hundred and thirty thousand. I amaware, however, that it is difficult to estimate the population of ahalf-civilized people, who invariably exaggerate their own strength;and visiters are likewise prone to do the same thing. The Chinesecomprise about an eighth of the population of the town, and aregenerally of the lower class. They are constantly busy at their trades,and intent upon making money.

At Soung, business seems active, and all, slaves as well as masters,seem to engage in it. The absence of a strong government leaves all atliberty to act for themselves, and the Ruma Bechara gives unlimitedfreedom to trade. These circ*mstances promote the industry of thecommunity, and even that of the slave, for he too, as before observed,has a life interest in what he earns.

Soung being the residence of the Sultan, as well [169]asthe grand depôt for all piratical goods, is probably more of amart than any of the surrounding towns. In the months of March andApril it is visited by several Chinese junks, who remain trading untilthe beginning of the month of August. If delayed after that time, theycan scarcely return in safety, being unable to contend with theboisterous weather and head winds that then prevail in the Chineseseas. These junks are said to come chiefly from Amoy, where thecottons, &c., best suited for the Sooloos are made. Their cargoesconsist of a variety of articles of Chinese manufacture and produce,such as silk, satin goods, cottons, red and checked, grass-clothclothing, handkerchiefs, cutlery, guns, ammunition, opium, lumber,china and glass-ware, rice, sugar, oil, lard, and butter. In return forthis merchandise they obtain camphor, birds’-nests, rattans,biche de mar, pearls and pearl-shells, cocoa, tortoise-shell, and wax;but there is no great quantity of these articles to be obtained,perhaps not more than two or three cargoes during the season. The traderequires great knowledge of the articles purchased, for the Chinese andSooloos are both such adepts in fraud, that great caution andcirc*mspection are necessary.

The duties on importation are not fixed, but are changed and alteredfrom time to time by the Ruma Bechara. The following was stated to meas the necessary payments before trade could be carried on.

This supposes them all to have full cargoes. That [170]adifference should be made in a vessel with or without Chinamen, seemssingular; but this, I was told, arose from the circ*mstance thatEnglish vessels take them on board, in order to detect and prevent theimpositions of the Sooloos.

Vessels intending to trade at Soung should arrive before the Chinesejunks, and remain as long as they stay, or even a few days later. Intrading with the natives, all operations ought to be carried on forcash, or if by barter, no delivery should be made until the articles tobe taken in exchange are received. In short, it is necessary to dealwith them as though they were undoubted rogues, and this pleases themmuch more than to appear unsuspicious. Vessels that trade engage abazaar, which they hire of the Ruma Bechara, and it is advisable tosecure the good-will of the leading datus in that council by presents,and paying them more for their goods than others.

There are various other precautions necessary in dealing with thispeople; for they will, if possible, so act as to give rise to disputes,in which case an appeal is made to their fellows, who are sure todecide against the strangers. Those who have been engaged in thistrade, advise that the prices of the goods should be fixed upon beforethe Sultan, and the scales of the Datu of Soung employed; for althoughthese are quite faulty, the error is compensated by the articlesreceived being weighed in the same. This also secures the Datu’sgood-will, by the fee (some fifty dollars) which he receives for theuse of them. Thus it will be perceived that those who desire to tradewith Sooloo, must make up their minds to encounter many impositions,and to be continually watchful of their own interests. [171]

Every possible precaution ought to be taken; and it will be found,the treatment will depend upon, or be according to the force orresolution that is displayed. In justice to this people it must bestated, there have been times when traders received every kindness andattention at the island of Sooloo, and I heard it even said, that manyvessels had gone there to refit; but during the last thirty or fortyyears, the reigning sultans and their subjects have become hostile toEuropeans, of whom they plunder and destroy as many as they can, andthis they have hitherto been allowed to do with impunity.

Although I have described the trade with Sooloo as limited, yet itis capable of greater extension; and had it not been for the piraticalhabits of the people, the evil report of which has been so widelyspread, Sooloo would now have been one of the principal marts of theEast. The most fertile parts of Borneo are subject to its authority.There all the richest productions of these Eastern seas grow in immensequantities, but are now left ungarnered in consequence of there beingno buyers. The cost of their cultivation would be exceedingly low, and Iam disposed to believe that these articles could be produced here at alower cost than any where else.

Besides the trade with China, there is a very considerable one withManilla in small articles, and I found one of our countrymen engaged inthis traffic, under the Spanish flag. To him I am indebted for muchinformation that his opportunities for observation had given him.

The materials for the history of Sooloo are meagre, and great doubtsseem to exist in some periods of it. That which I have been able togather is as follows. [172]

The island of Sooloo is generally believed to have been originallyinhabited by Papuans, some of whom, as I have already stated, are stillsupposed to inhabit the mountainous part. The first intercourse hadwith them was by the Chinese, who went there in search of pearls. TheOrang Dampuwans were the first of the Malays to form settlements on theislands; but after building towns, and making other improvements, theyabandoned the islands, in consequence, it is said, of the inhabitantsbeing a perfidious race, having previously to their departure destroyedas many of the natives as they could.

The fame of the submarine riches of this archipelago reached Banjur,or Borneo, the people of which were induced to resort there, andfinding it to equal their expectation, they sent a large colony, andmade endeavours to win over the inhabitants, and obtain thereby thepossession of their rich isle. In order to confirm the alliance, afemale of Banjarmassing,43 of great beauty, was sent, andmarried to the principal chief; and from this alliance the sovereignsof Sooloo claim their descent. The treaty of marriage made Soolootributary to the Banjarmassing empire.

After the Banjars had thus obtained possession of the archipelago,the trade in its products attracted settlers from the surroundingislands, who soon contrived to displace the aborigines, and drive themto the inaccessible mountains for protection. [173]

When the Chinese took possession of the northern parts of Borneo,under the Emperor Songtiping, about the year 1375,44 thedaughter of that prince was married to a celebrated Arabian chief namedSherif Alli, who visited the shores of Borneo in quest of commerce. Thedescendants of this marriage extended their conquests not only over theSooloo Archipelago, but over the whole of the Philippines, and renderedthe former tributary to Borneo. In three reigns after this event, theSultan of Borneo proper married the daughter of a Sooloo chief, andfrom this union came Mirhome Bongsu, who succeeding to the throne whileyet a minor, his uncle acted as regent. Sooloo now wished to throw offthe yoke of Borneo, and through the intrigues of the regent succeededin doing so, as well as in retaining possession of the eastern side ofBorneo, from Maludu Bay on the north to Tulusyan on the south, whichhas ever since been a part of the Sooloo territory.

This event took place before Islamism became the prevailingreligion; but which form of idolatry, the Sooloos pretend, is not nowknown. It is, however, believed the people on the coast wereBud[d]hists, while those of the interior were Pagans.

The first Sultan of Sooloo was Kamaludin, and during his reign oneSayed Alli, a merchant, arrived at Sooloo from Mecca. He was a sherif,and soon converted one-half the islanders to his own faith. He waselected sultan on the death of Kamaludin, and [174]reigned seven years, in the course of which hebecame celebrated throughout the archipelago. Dying at Sooloo, a tombwas erected to him there, and the island came to be looked upon by thefaithful as the Mecca of the East, and continued to be resorted to as apilgrimage until the arrival of the Spaniards.

Sayed Alli left a son called Batua, who succeeded him. The latterhad two sons, named Sabudin and Nasarudin, who, on the death of theirfather, made war upon each other. Nasarudin, the youngest, beingdefeated, sought refuge on Tawi Tawi, where he established himself, andbuilt a fort for his protection. The difficulties were finallycompromised, and they agreed to reign together over Sooloo. Nasarudinhad two sons, called Amir and Bantilan, of whom the former was named assuccessor to the two brothers, and on their deaths ascended the throne.During his reign another sherif arrived from Mecca, who succeeded inconverting the remainder of the population to Islamism. Bantilan andhis brother Amir finally quarrelled, and the latter was driven fromSooloo to seek refuge in the island of Basillan, where he becamesultan.45

On the arrival of the Spaniards in 1566, a kind of desultory war waswaged by them upon the various islands, in the hope of conquering themand extending their religion. In these wars they succeeded in gainingtemporary possession of a part of Sooloo, and destroyed the tomb ofSayed Alli. The Spaniards always looked upon the conversion of theMoslems to the true Catholic faith with great interest; [175]butin the year 1646, the sultan of Magindanao succeeded in making peace,by the terms of which the Spaniards withdrew from Sooloo, and were toreceive from the sultan three cargoes of rice annually as atribute.

In 1608, the small-pox made fearful ravages, and most of theinhabitants fled from the scourge. Among these was the heir apparent,during whose absence the throne became vacant, and another was electedin his stead. This produced contention for a short time, which ended inthe elected maintaining his place.

This tribute continued to be paid until the flight of Amir toBasillan, about the year 1752, where he entered into a secretcorrespondence with the authorities at Samboangan, and after two yearsa vessel was sent from Manilla, which carried him to that capital,where he was treated as a prisoner of state.

In June, 1759, an English ship, on board of which was Dalrymple,then in the service of the East India Company, arrived at Sooloo on atrading voyage. Dalrymple remained at Sooloo for three months, engagedin making sales and purchases. The Sultan Bantilan treated him withgreat kindness, and sought the interest of Dalrymple to obtain theliberation of his brother, who was now held prisoner by the Spaniardsat Manilla, by telling him of his brother’s wife, who had beenleft behind when Amir quitted the island, and had been delivered oftwins, after he had been kidnapped by the Spaniards. Dalrymple enteredinto a pledge to restore Amir, and at the same time effected acommercial treaty between the East India Company and the Sooloo[176]chiefs. By this it was stipulated that an annualcargo should be sent to Sooloo, and sold at one hundred per cent.profit, for which a return cargo should be provided for the Chinamarket, which should realize an equal profit there, after deducting allexpenses. The overplus, if any, was to be carried to the credit of theSooloos. This appears to have been the first attempt made by theEnglish to secure a regular commercial intercourse with thisarchipelago.

In the year 1760, a large fleet of Spanish vessels sailed fromManilla, with about two thousand men, having the Sultan Amir on board,to carry on a war against Sooloo.

On their arrival, they began active operations. They were repelledon all sides, and after seven days’ ineffectual attempts, theygave up their design. They returned to Manilla, it is said, with a lossof half their number, and without having done any injury to theSooloos. Not discouraged with this failure, the Spaniards, about twoyears after, organized a still larger force, which is estimated by someaccounts as high as ten thousand men. Although this failed in itsattempts on the fort at Soung, the Spaniards obtained possession ofTanjong Matonda, one of the small ports on the island, where theyerected a church and fort. Here they established a colony, andappointed a governor. The inhabitants upon this deserted theirhabitations in the neighbourhood, and fled to the mountains, which, itis said, excited the mountaineers, a host of whom, with their chief,whose name was Sri Kala, determined to rush upon the Spaniards, andannihilate them. Having to contend against disciplined troops, it wasnot an easy [177]task to succeed. But Sri Kala had a follower,named Sigalo, who offered to lead the host to battle against theSpaniards, and to exterminate them, or to die in the attempt. The chiefaccepted his offer, and Sigalo, with a chosen few, marched towards thefort, leaving the rest of the mountaineers in readiness to join them atan appointed signal, and rush into the fort en masse.

Sri Kala and Sigalo, in order to lull the watchfulness of theSpaniards, took with them a young woman, of exquisite beauty, namedPurmassuri. The lustful Spaniards were thus thrown off their guard, thesignal was given, and the host, rushing forward, entered the fort,every Spaniard within which was slain. A few only, who were on theoutside, escaped to the vessels, which set sail, and after encounteringvarious mishaps, returned to Manilla

Some time after this the Sultan Bantilan died, and his sonAlimud-deen was proclaimed sultan. Dalrymple did not return until 1762,with a part of the appointed cargo; but the vessel in which the largerpart had been shipped, failed to arrive, from not being able to findSooloo, and went to China. Thence she proceeded to Manilla, andafterwards to Sooloo. The captain of the latter vessel gave a newcredit to the Sooloos, before they had paid for their first cargo; andon the arrival of Dalrymple the next time, he found that the small-poxhad carried off a large number of the inhabitants, from whichcirc*mstance all his hopes of profit were frustrated. He then obtainedfor the use of the East India Company, a grant of the island ofBalambangan, which lies off the north end of Borneo, forming one sideof the Straits of Balabac, the western entrance to the [178]Sooloo Sea. Here he proposed to establish atrading port, and after having visited Madras, he took possession ofthis island in 1763.

In October, 1763, the English took Manilla,46 where theSultan Amir was found by Dalrymple, who engaged to reinstate him on histhrone, if he would cede to the English the north end of Borneo, aswell as the south end of Palawan. This he readily promised, and he was,in consequence, carried back to Sooloo, and reinstated; his nephew,Alim-ud-deen, readily giving place to him, and confirming the grant tothe East India Company, in which the Ruma Bechara joined.

After various arrangements, the East India Company took possessionof Balambangan, in the year 1773, and formed a settlement there with aview of making it an emporium of trade for Eastern commodities. Troopsand stores were sent from India, and the population began to increaseby settlers, both Chinese and Malays, who arrived in numbers. In theyear 1775, the fort, notwithstanding all the treaties and engagementsbetween Dalrymple and the Sultan, was surprised by the Sultan, and manyof the garrison put to death. This virtually put an end to the plans ofthe English, although another attempt was made to re-establish thesettlement by Colonel Farquhar, in 1803; but it was thought to be tooexpensive a post, and was accordingly abandoned in the next year. Thisact of the Sooloos fairly established their character for perfidy, andever since that transaction they have been looked upon as treacherousin the highest degree, and, what is singular, [179]havebeen allowed to carry on their piracies quite unmolested. The taking ofBalambangan has been generally imputed to the treacherous dispositionand innate love of plunder among the Sooloos, as well as to their fearthat it would destroy the trade of Sooloo by injuring all that of thearchipelago. But there are strong reasons for believing that this darkdeed owed its origin in part to the influence of the Spaniards andDutch, who looked with much distrust upon the growth of the rivalestablishment. Such was the jealousy of the Spaniards, that thegovernor of the Philippines peremptorily required that Balambanganshould be evacuated. The Sooloos boast of the deed, and admit that theyreceived assistance from both Samboangan and Ternate, the two nearestSpanish and Dutch ports. These nations had great reasons to fear, theestablishment of a power like that of the East India Company, in a spotso favorably situated to secure the trade of the surrounding islands,possessing fine harbours, and in every way adapted to become a greatcommercial depôt. Had it been held by the East India Company butfor a few years, it must have become what Singapore is now.

The original planner of this settlement is said to have been LordPigot; but the merit of carrying it forward was undoubtedly due toDalrymple, whose enterprising mind saw the advantage of the situation,and whose energy was capable of carrying the project successfullyforward.

Since the capture of Balambangan, there has been no event in thehistory of Sooloo that has made any of the reigns of the Sultansmemorable, although fifteen have since ascended the throne.

Sooloo has from all the accounts very much [180]changed in its character as well as populationsince the arrival of the Spaniards, and the establishment of theirauthority in the Philippines. Before that event, some accounts statethat the trade with the Chinese was of great extent, and that from fourto five hundred junks arrived annually from Cambojia, with which Soolooprincipally traded. At that time the population is said to haveequalled in density that of the thickly-settled parts of China.

The government has also undergone a change; for the sultan, whoamong other Malay races is usually despotic, is here a mere cipher, andthe government has become an oligarchy. This change has probably beenbrought about by the increase of the privileged class of datus, all ofwhom are entitled to a seat in the Ruma Bechara until about the year1810, when the great inconvenience of so large a council was felt, andit became impossible to control it without great difficulty and troubleon the part of the sultan. The Ruma Bechara was then reduced until itcontained but six of the principal datus, who assumed the power ofcontrolling the state. The Ruma Bechara, however, in consequence of thecomplaints of many powerful datus, was enlarged; but the more powerful,and those who have the largest numerical force of slaves, still ruleover its deliberations. The whole power, within the last thirty years,has been usurped by one or two datus, who now have monopolized thelittle foreign trade that comes to these islands. The sultan has theright to appoint his successor, and generally names him while living.In default of this, the choice devolves upon the Ruma Bechara, whoelect by a majority.

From a more frequent intercourse with Europeans [181]andthe discovery of new routes through these seas, the opportunities ofcommitting depredations have become less frequent, and the fear ofdetection greater. By this latter motive they are more swayed than byany thing else, and if the Sooloos have ever been bold and daringrobbers on the high seas, they have very much changed.

Many statements have been made and published relative to thepiracies committed in these seas, which in some cases exceed, and inothers fall short, of the reality. Most of the piratical establishmentsare under the rule, or sail under the auspices of the Sultan or RumaBechara of Sooloo, who are more or less intimately connected with them.The share of the booty that belongs to the Sultan and Ruma Bechara, istwenty-five per cent. on all captures, whilst the datus receive a highprice for the advance they make of guns and powder, and for theservices of their slaves.

The following are the piratical establishments of Sooloo, obtainedfrom the most authentic sources, published as well as verbal. The firstamong these is the port of Soung, at which we anchored, in the islandof Sooloo; not so much from the number of men available here for thispursuit, as the facility of disposing of the goods. By the Spaniardsthey are denominated Illanun or Lanuns pirates.47 There[182]are other rendezvous on Pulo Toolyan, at Bohol,Tonho, Pilas, Tawi Tawi, Sumlout, Pantutaran, Parodasan, Palawan, andBasillan, and Tantoli on Celebes.48 These are the most noted,but there are many minor places, where half a dozen prahus are fittedout. Those of Sooloo, and those who go under the name of the Lanuns,have prahus of larger size, and better fitted. They are from twenty tothirty tons burden and are propelled by both sails and oars. They drawbut little water, are fast sailers, and well adapted for navigatingthrough these dangerous seas. These pirates are supposed to possess inthe whole about two hundred prahus, which usually are manned with fromforty to fifty pirates; the number therefore engaged in this business,may be estimated at ten thousand. They are armed with muskets,blunderbusses, krises, hatchets, and spears, and at times the vesselshave one or two large guns mounted. They infest the Straits ofMacassar, the Sea of Celebes, and the Sooloo Sea. Soung is the onlyplace where they can dispose of their plunder to advantage, and obtainthe necessary outfits. It may be called the principal resort of thesepirates, where well directed measures would result in effectuallysuppressing the crime.

Besides the pirates of Sooloo, the commerce of the [183]Eastern islands is vexed with other piraticalestablishments. In the neighbouring seas, there are the Malay pirates,who have of late years become exceedingly troublesome. Their prahus areof much smaller size than those of Sooloo, being from ten to twelvetons burden, but in proportion they are much better manned, and thusare enabled to ply with more efficiency their oars or paddles. Theseprahus frequent the shores of the Straits of Malacca, Cape Romania, theCarimon Isles, and the neighbouring straits, and at times they visitthe Straits of Rhio. Some of the most noted, I was informed, werefitted out from Johore, in the very neighbourhood of the Englishauthorities at Singapore; they generally have their haunts on the smallislands on the coast, from which they make short cruises.

They are noted for their arrangements for preventing themselves fromreceiving injury, in the desperate defences that are sometimes madeagainst them. These small prahus have usually swivels mounted, which,although not of great calibre, are capable of throwing a shot beyondthe range of small-arms. It is said that they seldom attempt an attackunless the sea is calm, which enables them to approach their victimswith more assurance of success, on account of the facility with whichthey are enabled to manage their boats. The frequent calms which occurin these seas between the land and sea breezes, afford them manyopportunities of putting their villa[i]nous plans in operation; and themany inlets and islets, with which they are well acquainted, affordplaces of refuge and ambush, and for concealing their booty. They aregenerally found in small flotillas of from six to twenty prahus, andwhen they [184]have succeeded in disabling a vessel at longshot, the sound of the gong is the signal for boarding, which ifsuccessful, results in a massacre more or less bloody, according to theobstinacy of the resistance they have met with.

In the winter months, the Straits of Malacca are most infected withthem; and during the summer, the neighbourhood of Singapore, PointRomania, and the channels in the vicinity. In the spring, from Februaryto May, they are engaged in procuring their supplies, in fishing, andrefitting their prahus for the coming year.

I have frequently heard plans for the suppression of these pirates,particularly of those in the neighbourhood of the settlements underBritish rule. The European authorities are much to blame for thequiescent manner in which they have so long borne these depredations,and many complaints are made that Englishmen, on being transplanted toIndia, lose that feeling of horror for deeds of blood, such as areconstantly occurring at their very doors, which they would experiencein England. There are, however, many difficulties to overcome beforeoperations against the pirates can be effective. The greatest of theseis the desire of the English to secure the goodwill of the chiefs ofthe tribes by whom they are surrounded. They thus wink at theirpiracies on the vessels of other nations, or take no steps to alleviatethe evils of slavery. Indeed the language that one hears from manyintelligent men who have long resided in that part of the world is,that in no country where civilization exists does slavery exhibit sodebasing a form as in her Indian possessions. Another difficultyconsists in the want of minute [185]knowledge of the coasts,inlets, and hiding-places of the pirates, and this must continue toexist until proper surveys are made. This done, it would be necessaryto employ vessels that could pursue the pirates every where, for whichsteamers naturally suggest themselves.49

What will appear most extraordinary is, that the very princes whoare enjoying the stipend for the purchase of the site whereon theEnglish authority is established, are believed to be the most active inequipping the prahus for these piratical expeditions; yet no notice istaken of them, although it would be so easy to control them bywithholding payment until they had cleared themselves from suspicion,or by establishing residents in their chief towns.

Another, and a very different race of natives who frequent theSooloo Archipelago, must not be passed by without notice. These are theBajow50 divers or fishermen, to whom Sooloo is indebtedfor procuring the submarine treasures with which her seas are stored.They are also very frequently employed in the biche de mar or tripangfisheries among the islands to the south. The Bajows generally lookupon Macassar as their principal place of resort. They were at one timebelieved to be derived from Johore, on the Malayan peninsula; atanother to be Buguese; but they speak the Sooloo dialect, and arecertainly derived from some of the neighbouring [186]islands. The name of Bajows, in their tongue,means fishermen. From all accounts, they are allowed to pursue theiravocations in peace, and are not unfrequently employed by the piraticaldatus, and made to labour for them. They resort to theirfishing-grounds in fleets of between one and two hundred sail, havingtheir wives and children with them, and in consequence of the tyrannyof the Sooloos, endeavour to place themselves under the protection ofthe flag of Holland, by which nation this useful class of people isencouraged. The Sooloo seas are comparatively little frequented bythem, as they are unable to dispose of the produce of their fisheriesfor want of a market, and fear the exactions of the datus. Their prahusare about five tons each. The Bajows at some islands are stationary,but are for the most part constantly changing their ground. The Spanishauthorities in the Philippines encourage them, it is said, to frequenttheir islands, as without them they would derive little benefit fromthe banks in the neighbouring seas, where quantities of pearl-oystersare known to exist, which produce pearls of the finest kind. The Bajowsare inoffensive and very industrious, and in faith Mahomedans.

The climate of Sooloo during our short stay, though warm, wasagreeable. The time of our visit was in the dry season, which lastsfrom October to April, and alternates with the wet one from May tillSeptember. June and July are the windy months, when strong breezes blowfrom the westward. In the latter part of August and September, stronggales are felt from the south, while in December and January the windsare found to come from the northward; but light winds usually prevailfrom the southwest during the wet season, and from the opposite[187]quarter, the dry, following closely the order ofthe monsoons in the China seas. As to the temperature, the climate isvery equable, the thermometer seldom rising above 90° or fallingbelow 70°.

Diseases are few, and those that prevail arise from the manner inwhich the natives live. They are from that cause an unhealthy-lookingrace. The smallpox has at various times raged with great violencethroughout the group, and they speak of it with great dread. Few of thenatives appear to be marked with it, which may have been owing,perhaps, to their escaping this disorder for some years. Vaccinationhas not yet been introduced among them, nor have they practisedinoculation.

Notwithstanding Soung was once the Mecca of the East, its peoplehave but little zeal for the Mahomedan faith. It was thought at onetime that they had almost forgotten its tenets, in consequence of theneglect of all their religious observances. The precepts which theyseem to regard most are that of abstaining from swine’s flesh,and that of being circumcised. Although polygamy is not interdicted,few even of the datus have more than one wife.

Soung Road offers good anchorage; and supplies of all kinds may behad in abundance. Beef is cheap, and vegetables and fruit at allseasons plenty.

Our observations placed the town in latitude 6° 10′ N.,longitude 120° 55′ 51″ E.

On the 6th, having concluded the treaty (a copy of which will befound in Appendix XIII)51 and the [188]other business that had taken me to Sooloo, wetook our departure for the Straits of Balabac, the western entranceinto this sea, with a fine breeze to the eastward. By noon we hadreached the group of Pangootaaraang,52 consistingof five small islands. All of these are low, covered with trees, andwithout lagoons. They presented a great contrast to Sooloo, which wasseen behind us in the distance. The absence of the swell of the oceanin sailing through this sea is striking, and gives the idea ofnavigating an extensive bay, on whose luxuriant islands no surf breaks.There are, however, sources of danger that incite the navigator towatchfulness and constant anxiety; the hidden shoals and reefs, and thesweep [189]of the tide, which leave him no control over hisvessel.

Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, we sounded everytwenty minutes, but found no bottom; and at daylight on the 7th, wemade the islands of Cagayan Sooloo,53 in latitude 7°03′ 30″ N., longitude 118° 37′ E. The tide orcurrent was passing the islands to the west-southwest, three-quartersof a mile per hour; we had soundings of seventy-five fathoms. CagayanSooloo has a pleasant appearance from the sea, and may be termed a highisland. It is less covered with undergrowth and mangrove-bushes thanthe neighbouring islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. It hasfallen off in importance, and by comparing former accounts with those Ireceived, and from its present aspect, it would seem that it hasdecreased both in population and products. Its caves formerly supplieda large quantity of edible birds’-nests; large numbers of cattlewere to be found upon it; and its cultivation was carried on to someextent. These articles of commerce are not so much attended to at thepresent time, and the biche de mar and tortoise-shell, formerly broughthither, are now carried to other places. There is a small anchorage onthe west side, but we did not visit it. There are no dangers near thesesmall islands that may not be guarded against. Our survey extended onlyto their size and situation, as I deemed it my duty to devote all theremainder of the time I had to spare to the Straits of Balabac.

[Proceeding, our author relates the stay of the vessel in, anddescribes, the Mangsee Islands, Balabac, [190]and Balambangan,about which various scientific observations were carried on.“Lieutenant Perry, ... near a small beach on the island ofBalambangan, encountered some Sooloos, who were disposed to attack him.The natives, no doubt, were under the impression that the boats werefrom some shipwrecked vessel. They were all well-armed, and apparentlyprepared to take advantage of the party if possible; but, by theprudence and forbearance of this officer, collision was avoided, andhis party saved from an attack.” The British colony establishedon this island in 1773, dwindled steadily until 1775 when the piratesrushed the garrison and massacred almost every man. The work of RajahBrooke in Sarawak is mentioned, and the Dyaks described. Continuing Mr.Wilkes says:]

As the principal objects of my visit were to ascertain thedisposition and resources of the Sooloos for trade, and to examine thestraits leading into the Sooloo seas, in order to facilitate thecommunication with China, by avoiding on the one hand the easternroute, and on the other the dangers of the Palawan Passage, it may beas well to give the result of the latter inquiry, referring those whomay be more particularly interested to the Hydrographical Atlas andMemoir.

The difficulties in the Palawan Passage arising from heavy seas andfresh gales do not exist in the Sooloo Sea, nor are the shoals sonumerous or so dangerous. In the place of storms and rough water,smooth seas are found, and for most of the time moderate breezes, whichdo not subject a vessel to the wear and tear experienced in beating upagainst a monsoon. [191]

The Straits of Balabac may be easily reached, either from Singapore,or by beating up along the western shore to Borneo. When the straitsare reached, a vessel by choosing her time, may easily pass throughthem by daylight, even by beating when the wind is ahead. Once through,the way is clear, with the exception of a few coral lumps; theoccasional occurrence of the north wind will enable a vessel to passdirectly to the shores of the island of Panay. A fair wind willordinarily prevail along that island, and, as I have already mentioned,it may be approached closely. The passage through to the eastward ofMindoro Island may be taken in preference to that on the west sidethrough the Mindoro Strait, and thus all the reefs and shoals will beavoided. Thence, the western coast of Luzon will be followed to thenorth, as in the old route.

I do not think it necessary to point out any particular routethrough the Sooloo Sea, as vessels must be guided chiefly as the windsblow, but I would generally avoid approaching the Sooloo Islands, asthe currents are more rapid, and set rather to the southward. Whereverthere is anchorage, it would be advisable to anchor at night, as muchtime might thus be saved, and a knowledge of the currents, or sets ofthe tides obtained. Perhaps it would be as well to caution those whoare venturesome, that it is necessary to keep a good look-out, andthose who are timid, that there does not appear to be much danger fromthe piratical prahus, unless a vessel gets on shore: in that case itwill not be long before they will be seen collecting in the horizon inlarge numbers.

The treaty that I made with the Sultan, if strictly [192]enforced on the first infraction, will soon putan end to all the dangers to be apprehended from them. To conclude, Iam satisfied that under ordinary circ*mstances, to pass through theSooloo Sea will shorten by several days the passage to Manilla orCanton, and be a great saving of expense in the wear and tear of a shipand her canvass.

[On the eighteenth of February, the ship reaches the Straits ofSingapore, where they find the other three vessels of the fleet,namely, the “Porpoise,” the “Oregon,” and“Flying-Fish.”] [193]